Have you ever paused before applying sunscreen and wondered—who first came up with this life-saving idea? While we now see SPF bottles everywhere, the origins of sunscreen are much older and more fascinating than most people think.

Sunscreen in its modern sense was invented in the 1930s. Franz Greiter introduced “Gletscher Crème” in 1938, and Benjamin Green developed Coppertone in 1944. Ancient cultures relied on oils, pastes, and plant extracts for rudimentary sun protection, but the SPF rating system emerged in the 1960s. Since then, sunscreen has evolved into a globally regulated, broad-spectrum industry.

From ancient rice extracts in Japan to today’s high-tech photostable molecules, the history of sunscreen tells us about innovation, necessity, and consumer safety. Let’s explore how sunscreen was truly born and how it continues to evolve.

What did ancient cultures use for sun protection, and does it count as “sunscreen”?

Ancient civilizations lacked SPF bottles, but they weren’t defenseless. Egyptians used rice bran, jasmine, and lupine; Greeks applied olive oil; Indians favored turmeric and sandalwood; while Pacific Islanders layered coconut oil and natural pastes. These weren’t sunscreens in today’s sense, but they provided some UV filtering.

Did Egyptians invent the first sunscreen-like mixtures?

Yes. Ancient Egyptians mixed rice bran (rich in ferulic acid), jasmine (which absorbs UV), and lupine extracts to create protective balms. Though crude, these formulas provided measurable UV-blocking benefits compared to bare skin.

Egyptian papyrus texts even documented sun-care rituals, linking beauty with skin preservation. Archaeological residues confirm oils applied as protective coatings.

How did Asian cultures defend against sunlight?

Japanese women in the Heian period used rice bran water (containing gamma oryzanol), which naturally absorbs UV light. Similarly, Indians applied turmeric pastes for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, slowing sun damage.

These practices influenced modern cosmetic science, inspiring research into botanical antioxidants now used in sunscreens.

Were oils and muds used as natural shields?

Yes. Greek athletes covered their skin with olive oil for gloss and protection. Pacific Islanders relied on coconut oil and ground plant pastes. Clay and mud coatings were also widespread, reflecting light like primitive mineral sunscreens.

These materials offered partial protection, though without precise UVA/UVB filtering.

Ancient Sun Protection Practices

Ancient cultures improvised with what nature provided. Though not “sunscreen” by modern definitions, these remedies were the prototypes of sun protection.

When was modern sunscreen invented, and who were the key pioneers behind it?

Modern sunscreen emerged in the early 20th century. In 1938, Franz Greiter, an Austrian chemist, developed Gletscher Crème after suffering sunburns while climbing Mount Piz Buin. By 1944, Benjamin Green, a U.S. airman, invented Coppertone for soldiers.

Who was Franz Greiter, and why is he important?

Franz Greiter’s Gletscher Crème is widely regarded as the first commercial sunscreen. Later, he proposed the SPF scale in 1962, shaping global sunscreen standards.

How did Benjamin Green influence U.S. sunscreen history?

Green formulated Red Vet Pet (red veterinary petroleum jelly), the base of Coppertone, which became the first mass-market sunscreen brand in the U.S.

Were there other notable pioneers?

Yes. In 1936, French chemist Eugène Schueller (founder of L’Oréal) experimented with UV filters, marketing early lotions in Europe. Collectively, these figures defined sunscreen’s commercial beginnings.

How did SPF ratings originate, and when were UVA vs. UVB protections distinguished?

SPF ratings began with Franz Greiter in 1962, designed to measure UVB protection (sunburn prevention). By the 1990s, UVA protection was recognized as equally critical, leading to the broad-spectrum concept.

What does SPF really measure?

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) indicates how long skin can be exposed to UVB before burning. For example, SPF 30 allows roughly 30 times more exposure than unprotected skin.

When did UVA protection enter the conversation?

Initially, sunscreens only blocked UVB. By the late 1980s and early 1990s, studies linked UVA to photoaging and cancer. Regulations began requiring dual UVA/UVB coverage.

How do different SPF levels compare?

SPF doesn’t scale linearly. SPF 15 blocks ~93% of UVB, SPF 30 blocks ~97%, and SPF 50 blocks ~98%.

SPF Protection Levels

SPF started with UVB but grew to include UVA, shaping modern “broad-spectrum” claims.

Which early ingredients defined first-generation sunscreens, and why did formulations move beyond them?

The first sunscreens relied on para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide. While effective, PABA caused allergies, staining, and poor aesthetics, leading to safer, more stable replacements.

How did zinc oxide and titanium dioxide evolve?

Mineral filters reflected UV but left a chalky white cast. With micronization and coating technologies, modern versions are transparent and wearable.

Which molecules replaced early actives?

Modern sunscreens gradually replaced early, problematic actives with more stable, consumer-friendly molecules. Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) emerged as the first widely accepted UVA filter in the 1990s, though it required stabilizers to prevent breakdown. Mexoryl SX (Ecamsule), developed by L’Oréal, offered superior UVA stability and gained approval in Europe. Later, Tinosorb S and Tinosorb M entered the market, providing broad-spectrum coverage, high photostability, and compatibility with both mineral and chemical systems. These advancements improved not only efficacy but also cosmetic feel, paving the way for lightweight, transparent formulations that encourage consistent daily use by consumers worldwide.

Is mineral sunscreen older than chemical sunscreen, and how do their mechanisms and feel differ?

Yes. Mineral sunscreen (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) predates chemical filters, as minerals were used centuries ago. Chemical sunscreens appeared in the 20th century.

How do mineral sunscreens work?

Mineral sunscreens use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as active ingredients, creating a thin layer on the skin’s surface that reflects and scatters UV rays. Because they act like tiny mirrors, they start protecting the moment you apply them—no waiting time is required. Dermatologists often recommend them for babies, people with sensitive skin, or those prone to irritation. Modern technology has made them more elegant; micronized and coated minerals reduce the chalky white appearance that older formulas left behind. This makes today’s mineral sunscreens not only effective but also wearable for daily use.

How do chemical sunscreens work?

Chemical sunscreens rely on organic molecules like avobenzone, octocrylene, or oxybenzone, which absorb UV radiation and transform it into harmless heat that dissipates from the skin. Unlike minerals, they penetrate slightly into the upper skin layers, creating a lightweight, invisible finish. This makes them highly popular for everyday cosmetic wear, especially under makeup. However, their performance depends on proper application and reapplication every two hours for consistent protection. Some filters can degrade under sunlight, so stabilizers are added to improve longevity. Chemical sunscreens feel modern and elegant, appealing to consumers who dislike thick or heavy creams.

Which feels better to wear?

Comfort largely depends on skin type and personal preference. Mineral sunscreens can feel thicker, sometimes leaving a white cast that darker skin tones may notice. However, new tinted or micronized versions minimize this issue. Chemical sunscreens are typically lightweight, fast-absorbing, and more cosmetically elegant, which encourages daily use. They spread easily and often come in diverse textures such as gels or sprays. Sensitive users, though, may prefer mineral sunscreens since chemical filters occasionally cause stinging or irritation. Ultimately, the “better” feel comes down to whether you value immediate, gentle protection or sleek, invisible finishes for lifestyle convenience.

Mineral vs. Chemical Sunscreens

Mineral sunscreens are older and safer for sensitive types, while chemical sunscreens excel in cosmetic elegance.

How have safety regulations and testing evolved (FDA/EU), and what does “broad-spectrum” really mean?

Regulations began in the 1970s with FDA sunscreen monographs and EU cosmetic directives. “Broad-spectrum” means tested protection against both UVA and UVB, mandated since the 2010s.

How does FDA regulate sunscreens?

In the U.S., sunscreens are classified as over-the-counter (OTC) drugs, which means every active ingredient must pass FDA safety and efficacy reviews. Brands must conduct standardized SPF, broad-spectrum, and water-resistance tests under strict protocols. Claims such as “SPF 50” or “80 minutes water resistant” cannot appear on labels unless proven through FDA-approved trials. Manufacturers must also comply with labeling rules that educate consumers on reapplication frequency and sun-safe practices. This regulatory system ensures that U.S. sunscreens meet consistent, drug-level safety and performance standards before reaching the market.

How does the EU differ?

In contrast, the European Union classifies sunscreens as cosmetics, not drugs. Instead of FDA-style monographs, EU manufacturers must prepare a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) and submit it to the centralized Cosmetic Product Notification Portal (CPNP). Ingredient safety is reviewed by the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety), which approves or bans filters based on toxicology data. The EU also enforces stricter UVA testing, requiring UVA protection to be at least one-third of the labeled SPF. This framework allows more UV filters than the U.S., giving EU consumers a wider range of photostable, elegant sunscreen options.

What does “broad-spectrum” entail?

“Broad-spectrum” labeling means a sunscreen has proven it protects against both UVB rays (which cause sunburn) and UVA rays (which cause premature aging and long-term DNA damage). To qualify, products must undergo critical wavelength testing showing coverage up to at least 370 nanometers. In the EU, the UVA/UVB balance ratio must meet strict thresholds, while the FDA requires passing in-vitro tests alongside SPF trials. For consumers, “broad-spectrum” guarantees comprehensive defense—not just against burns but also wrinkles, pigmentation, and skin cancer risk—making it the gold standard claim on modern sunscreen labels.

Regulations vary, but both FDA and EU enforce rigorous safety and labeling rules to protect consumers.

What innovations since 2000 changed sunscreen?

Post-2000 innovations include photostable UVA filters (Tinosorb, Mexoryl), nanoparticle zinc/titanium, sprays, sticks, gels, and antioxidant-enriched hybrids.

What role do antioxidants play now?

Today’s sunscreens often go beyond UV filters by including antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, green tea, and resveratrol. These molecules neutralize free radicals generated by UV and pollution, offering a second line of defense. While SPF prevents burning, antioxidants help reduce photoaging, inflammation, and hyperpigmentation. For brands, adding antioxidants allows marketing a sunscreen as multifunctional, appealing to consumers who want skincare plus sun care in one step. This trend reflects a shift toward “total protection” products, combining UV filters with anti-pollution and anti-oxidative benefits.

How did textures evolve?

The biggest consumer complaint about sunscreens used to be greasy feel and white cast. Since 2000, textures have transformed dramatically—lightweight gels, silky fluids, refreshing sprays, and matte-finish sticks are now mainstream. These innovations not only improved comfort but also boosted user compliance, as people are more likely to apply sunscreen daily if it feels pleasant. Some brands use microencapsulation to make heavy filters feel feather-light.

Evolution of Sunscreen Textures

Have hybrid formulas gained traction?

Yes. Hybrid sunscreens—those blending UV filters with skincare benefits—are now booming. Tinted sunscreens that double as foundation, BB creams with SPF, and anti-pollution formulas with blue-light protection dominate shelves. These products meet consumer demand for multitasking convenience, saving time in morning routines. The appeal is strongest among younger demographics and busy professionals. Market reports show hybrid formulas growing faster than traditional sun-only products, especially in Asia and North America. For B2B brands, offering hybrid sunscreens positions them in premium, trend-sensitive categories with higher margins.

Which sunscreen format is best for your skin type and lifestyle, and how do you apply it correctly?

The best format depends on your needs: creams suit dry skin, gels suit oily skin, sprays suit on-the-go use, and sticks suit reapplication.

Which format works best for oily vs. dry skin?

Oily skin prefers gels or light fluids; dry skin benefits from cream or lotion bases.

Are sprays and sticks effective?

Yes, but only when applied generously and evenly. Sprays require rubbing in; sticks need thorough coverage.

How much sunscreen should you use?

Dermatologists recommend 2mg/cm², roughly a nickel-sized dollop for the face and 1 ounce for the body.

Best Formats by Skin Type

The right sunscreen depends on both skin type and lifestyle. Correct application is just as crucial as the product itself.

How do brands develop compliant, high-performance sunscreens today, and what does the R&D timeline look like?

Developing sunscreen takes 12–24 months and involves formulation, stability testing, SPF/UVA efficacy studies, regulatory reviews, and consumer trials.

What are the main R&D stages?

1. Ingredient selection & formulation stability
2. SPF/UVA in-vitro & in-vivo testing
3. Regulatory compliance checks (FDA/EU/Asia)
4. Packaging & photostability testing
5. Market positioning & branding

How do brands ensure compliance?

By submitting safety dossiers, clinical SPF data, and adhering to region-specific requirements. EU demands SCCS approvals; FDA requires OTC monograph alignment.

What is the cost and timeline?

Developing a sunscreen formula may cost $150,000–$500,000 and take 18 months before launch.

Typical Sunscreen Development Timeline

Conclusion

The story of sunscreen stretches from Egyptian rice bran balms to modern nanotech filters. Invented in the 1930s by pioneers like Franz Greiter and Benjamin Green, sunscreen has evolved into a regulated, essential product that preserves skin health. Today, innovations ensure lighter textures, safer filters, and broader protection.

For skincare brands, sunscreen is not just a product but a regulatory challenge and market opportunity. With consumer demand for clean, compliant, and effective sun care growing, partnering with an experienced OEM/ODM manufacturer ensures faster development and regulatory approval.

At Zerun Cosmetic, we specialize in custom sunscreen formulations, packaging, and branding for global markets. Whether you’re a boutique skincare line or a large-scale retailer, we help you create safe, high-performance sunscreens that meet FDA/EU compliance and delight consumers.